Horse Care
The Key to the right Saddle
Western saddles are often sized by the seat size and by the bars. The bars are the support system in the saddle that rest on the horse’s back. A general size measurement is that semi-QH bars will fit a horse with a narrow to average sized back, QH bars will fit an average to wider horse’s back and full QH bars will fit a wide to draft sized horse’s back. If your horse has very high withers you should consider a cutting or A fork to allow extra room in this area.
This is simply a guide and each horse is different as are the systems used by the manufacturer, so you should always try them on so to speak. Most tack shops will allow you to buy a saddle and take it home for the day, while still allowing you to return the saddle to exchange for another if it doesn’t fit properly.
When a saddle fits properly it should sit level on the horse’s back, with room for 3-4 fingers between the withers and the pommel. To check for level make sure the skirt is in a straight line from front to back. The skirt shouldn’t ride up anywhere. The seat should also look level where you would be sitting. If it is a used saddle, or after it is broken in the space will adjust to 2-3 fingers.
One of the keys here is to ensure that the saddle is properly placed as well. A saddle should sit approximately 2 finger’s width behind the horse’s shoulders. If a saddle is placed too high on the horse’s shoulders it impairs their ability to move and places too much weight directly on the shoulders rather than allowing the weight to be evenly distributed on the horse’s back.
Once you have found a saddle that appears to fit, you should test it out on a ride. This is especially true for used saddles. You should give it more than a once around a round pen, but instead ride for 15 minutes or more. Once you are done riding check the saddle pad and make sure that any sweat or dirt marks are evenly distributed and aren’t concentrated in a single place.
If while riding the horse’s gait seems off or if the horse lays its ears back or exhibits other traits that aren’t normal for the horse, then the saddle may not fit properly. Dismount and check the fit again and check the blanket for wrinkles or things that may be poking the horse.
If you have been riding using an older saddle, you may notice white hairs where the saddle sits. This shows that the saddle is creating a pressure point on the horse. This could indicate that the sheepskin may have become worn or that the saddle doesn’t fit properly. If this is occurring in a previously well fitting saddle it could mean that the horse has put on weight or muscle mass from training.
The next fit should be for the rider’s seat. The rider should be comfortable and feel natural when sitting in the saddle. The most common problem with seat fit is one that is too small forcing the rider to sit too far back in the seat. This doesn’t allow the weight to be evenly distributed and causes muscle pain and affects the horse’s performance. To ensure that the seat is fitted properly the rider should mount the horse and sit in a natural position. You should be able to comfortably and easily put your hand on your thigh at the pommel.
Saddle Fitting
There are so many different types of Saddles on the market today it can be really frustrating to find the right one to fit your horse. The first thing you must decide is what type of saddle you want to buy. First let me explain the parts of an equestrian saddle so you completely understand each part. • Tree: The heart of a saddle, the rest of the saddle is built around it, usually it is made of wood but several years ago they started making them with synthetic materials, the size and shape is what fits the horses back. Parts of the Saddle Tree • Bars: Runners that distribute the weight of the rider evenly over the back of the horse, they attach to the fork in the front and the cantle in the rear, they are angled to match the horses back thus spreading the overall weight of the rider to as much area as possible. • Fork: A lot of times referred to as the pommel or swell this is the front raised part of the saddle. • Horn: Attaches to the top of the fork this is usually for holding on or balance. • Cantle: The Back of the saddle, behind the seat this is the back of the seat.
Saddles come in all different verities, whether you show, pleasure ride, barrel race, rope or train horses you need to make sure you need to make sure the saddle fits your horse and then you. Knowing the breed of horse you have can make it easier to get the correct fitting saddle but that isn’t always the case, to make it easier you need to determine what size tree fits your horse. I usually take a coat hanger and cut it about sixteen and one half inches making it a straight piece when I finish. Your horses withers are located at the back of his should blades, your saddle will sit a couple of inches back from here, if you’re not sure about were the withers are then walk him around and you will see the back of the should blades moving as he walks. Bend the wire in the middle across the withers, the wire should then be in a v shape and fit perfectly on his back. After you’ve done this lay the wire down flat and measure across the two ends this is the width of the correct fitting saddle, you can also take this with you and compare it to the bottom of a saddle to get the proper fit for your horse.
Arabian Saddles, the gullet of these types are usually 6 3/4" or higher but the angle of the bars is more open to allow for the wide shoulders and flat back, the saddles are generally made shorter also since Arabians backs are shorter than other breeds. Gaited Horse Saddles usually have a higher gullet for a high withered horse. Draft Horse Saddles have a higher gullet for the larger horse breeds. For Western Saddles sizes range from 13 to 18 inches they are measured from the back of the swell to the stitching on the cantle, the best way to get the right fit is by trying one out at the saddle shop but for the times when you can’t this is a good guide to go by. For a rider that weighs 85 pounds a seat size of 13 inches would be preferred, up to 110 pounds would be a 14 inch seat, up to 145 pounds would be a 15 inch seat, up to 175 pounds would be a 16 inch seat, up to 205 pounds would be a 17 inch seat, and any body weight over 295 would be a 18 inch seat size. It is always better for your seat size to be a little bigger than smaller, you can sit down in one a little bigger but the smaller one you are on top of it instead of down in it. If you placed your saddle on the horses back without a blanket you should see that most of the angled area is making contact, also the area over the spine there should be no contact since the spine can’t carry any weight on it if you have contact on the spine or not enough contact on the sides then you have the wrong saddle type for your horse. English tree dimension are measured in centimeters instead of inches. A narrow tree size is 28 cm, standard is 29 cm, medium is 30 cm, wide is 31 cm and extra-wide is 32 cm, the narrow trees are generally for higher withered horses and the extra wide would fit horses with a shorted wither. I don’t ride English saddles so I had to look around to find some type of chart to use for getting a seat size, I found this one at CrasyHorseTack Sit in a chair so that your upper leg is at a right angle to your lower leg, measure your upper leg from the back of your but to the tip of you knee, a dealer that sells English saddles could most likely convert these sizes for you. I am going to put upper leg measurements and seat sizes together, so for a upper leg length of up to 16 ½ inches, would be a seat size of 15 inches, up to 18 ½ inches leg is a 16 inch seat, up to 20 inches leg is a 16 ½ inch seat, up to 21 ½ inches leg is a 17 inch seat, up to 23 inches leg is a 17 ½ inch seat, and up to 23 inches is a 18 inch seat. |

